Inside Candy and Green, Breach Candy | New Opening
As humans, we discriminate in pretty much any way we can. We do this based on how people talk, their clothes, and even on the basis of where they live. Even good ol’ food isn’t immune from such discrimination. We’re talking about vegetarians here, who often are told, without really being told, that their food isn’t as good as dishes with meat.
Since actions are meant to speak louder than words, Candy and Green is making theirs count. The new restaurant in Breach Candy has a meat-free menu, as described by owner Shraddha Bhansali. The menu has a pleasantly wide drinks selection, with a generous wines and spirits list. Also available are beer, a selection of classic coffee preparations, and Indian teas which share space with smoothies, cold press juices and refreshing house cocktails like the Kaffir & Musk Melon Martini, which we couldn’t drink because we visited on a dry day.
Candy and Green is divided into two levels, a spirited and playful lower section, and a lounge-y terrace that plays ambient music at a volume perfect for conversation. The food menu includes small and sharing plates, as well as international platters called Bountiful Boards. Soups, salads, flat-breads, and desserts complete the dizzying selection, filled with ingredients like kale, avocado, and portobello mushrooms.
Our night began with Moroccan Lentil, a thick, homely chickpea-based soup with a sprinkle of lime and red chillies. Its wholesome texture and gentle aroma along with a large quantity make it an ideal comfort bowl for someone with a cold, although you’ll enjoy its subtlety more without one.
We then quickly gobbled up a Kale Crumble Tart and Achari Mushroom Tikki, both with flavours that couldn’t be more far apart from each other. The sprinkling of kale on the tart with perfect texture remains subtle, while the earthy broccoli and sundried tomatoes underline its fresh flavour. Modern plating of the Achari Mushroom Tikki make it a pleasant sight, although one’s more likely to inhale its aroma of it arriving on the table. The tangy, sour flavour of nearly crumbly tikkis is an enjoyable combination.
The Baby Spinach & Seasonal Fruit salad can convert any green haters with its farm-fresh slightly sweet strawberry dressing and pieces scattered across a bed of greens. We’re waiting to see what they’ll pull off with a citrus fruit like orange.
Our main entrée was a Black is Back risotto, a dish that’s many things but a looker. Made from black rice and generously present portobello mushrooms, this one’s extremely pleasant on the palate. With a streak of garlic and a hint of truffle, its bold lush mushroom taste makes it memorable.
Dessert was in order, and the choice is challenging on this front. After a tussle in our heads between the Very Berry Pancake and the No More Depresso Mousse, we went with the latter. The vegan dessert comes in a cosy green cup, with a pleasantly restrained and understated hazelnut flavour. While we couldn’t find the hint of coffee, its creamy, light texture was a good note to end the meal on.
Through our meal we barely heard any of the notorious Breach Candy traffic, and were kept in good spirits by the comfortable, slightly upbeat environment on the terrace. This is definitely a space worth spending a balmy night at.
Candy and Green gets brownie points on many fronts – the skilled, nuanced vegetarian menu is a welcome change from the many restaurants that load their veg fare with dollops of cheese and butter. To be true to two different vibes at the same place is refreshing, as is their endavour of growing their own microgreens and foliage, which they claim clocks in at 25 kilos a week.
If you do feel light and fresh after a meal at this charming space, do ask for a ladder to climb to their garden on the upper terrace, where you’ll find a greenhouse filled with plants and produce. It may just change your mind on what it takes to be a vegetarian restaurant of quality in our city.