#MohallaMunch: A Food Walk Through Mohammad Ali Road
If you look at our website title, it’s a dead giveaway that we love the city and the food it offers. When Khaki Tours launched #MohallaMunch, their walk through Byculla and Mohammad Ali Road in the month leading up to Ramzan, we were immediately keen to tag along and get a sense of the locality and the more unique food and outlets it has to offer.
We began as the sun was setting, occupying half of Al Rehmani for Seekh Paratha. Available in mutton and buff, these sublime, simple meaty kebabs have the texture of petrichor drenched mud. It almost felt wrong to dip them into green chutney, but we did to find it cooling and fresh. The Parathas make for a warm, generous blanket around these kebabs without diluting their simple appeal.
Our next stop was at J J Jalebi, best known for Mawa Jalebi, an guaranteed upgrade on the regular jalebi for its generous size, sugar syrup levels, and a dark brown colour that could resemble chocolate. Don’t even think about leaving Mohammad Ali Road without trying one.
Since this was as much a heritage and history walk as a food one, we turned left into Pakmodia street. Most famous for being Dawood Ibrahim’s haunt while he was operating in the city, you’ll still find the board up for Delhi Zaika, a restaurant he had rented out space to. Though the owner has nothing to do with Ibrahim and has since moved to Grant Road, there’s still a common belief that the restaurant is owned by the gangster, despite the property being sold to journalist S Balakrishnan.
The next pit stop is Fakhri Bakes & Sweets, a rather well-lit and modern shop considering the neighbourhood. As the title states, they are as beloved for their sweets as their khari. Specialties here include the flaky and airy Cheese Pech Butter Khari & Plain Butter Khari. Dessert indulgences include delicate Malai Mango Barfi, a bold, prominently flavoured Anjeer Barfi & a classic, understated Kaju Katri.
All our next stops were on Khara Tank Road, easily the capital of street food in Mumbai. It’s unfortunate that it is most often swept under the radar when talking about the city’s food scene.
Fortunately, the #MohallaMunch walk by Khaki Tours took us through some interesting sights. We came across a Parsi chawl, walked by the covered Raudat Tahera, easily the city’s most elegant burial site, and gazed at occasional art deco buildings unlikely to survive the neighbourhood’s redevelopment by the Saifee Burhani Upliftment Trust.
See more upcoming walks by Khaki Tours.